FAQ'S FOR BEHAVIOUR & TRAINING
- How do I discourage my dog from eating faeces (coprophagia)?
- How do I go about introducing a new cat to a resident cat?
- How do I discourage my cat from spraying in the house?
- How do I deal with separation related anxieties?
- How do I house train my puppy?
- How do I help my pet deal with fireworks, phobias and fears?
- How do I stop my dog being destructive?
- What should I do when I move my pet to a new home?
- How do I teach my cat how to use a litter tray?
- How do I deal with inappropriate toileting in dogs and cats?
- My cat is scratching the wallpaper, what should I do?
- Clicker Training for dogs - what is it and how can I use it?
- Dog training or People training?
- How do I toilet train my puppy?
- Why does my cat scratch?
- How can I ensure a stress free home move for my cat?
- How long should I wait for letting my cat outside?
FAQ'S FOR NUTRITION & HEALTH
- How much food should I feed my pet?
- My cat is very fussy - what is the best thing to feed it?
- How do I get rid of fleas from my cat or dog?
- What's the best way to feed dry foods?
- My dog is a diabetic do I need to feed a special diet?
- What's the best way to wean my kitten?
- How do I groom my cat?
- How do I groom my dog?
- What are the pros and cons of neutering my cat?
- What are the pros and cons of neutering my dog?
FAQ'S FOR BEHAVIOUR & TRAINING.
1. How do I discourage my dog from eating faeces (coprophagia)?
There are several possible solutions to try:
- The pineapple method: Put small chunks of fresh pineapple into the dog's food (do not use large pieces as this may induce vomiting). This gives the faeces a bitter taste.
- The courgette method: Cook some courgettes until soft in a small amount of olive oil. A batch can be made and stored in the fridge. Give a small dog 1-2 teaspoons and a large dog up to 1 tablespoon with each meal.
- Bait faecal material with foul tasting substance: Beware the dog may develop a liking for this!
In addition to using one of the methods above you should also consider the following:
- The best way to correct this problem is to restrict access to faecal material, supervise all outdoor access and clean up immediately after.
- Reward good behaviour with a tasty treat.
- In extreme cases a basket type muzzle can be used.
- Provide a wide variety of chew toys and increase quality time with your pet.
- Some dogs use this as an attention seeking behaviour so ignore unless caught in the act.
2. How do I go about introducing a new cat to a resident cat?
It is virtually impossible to predict how one cat will respond to another. Personalities may clash! But please follow these general guidelines:- Take it slow, it is harder to repair damage than to prevent it.
- Spend extra time alone with each pet.
- Allow frightened animals a chance to get away from stressful situations, do not block escape.
- Consider owner and animal safety.
- First few days, confine new cat to one room with a litter tray and water, spend time in there with it.
- Resident cat will smell and sense intruder, reassure resident cat.
- Feeding relieves anxiety, feed the cats either side of the door to the room where the new cat is confined, moving bowls closer together.
- Move only as quickly as both cats seem comfortable with.
- Confine resident cat to an area which it is comfortable with and allow new cat to explore house until both seem relaxed. This may take days or weeks.
- Arrange for a time when both cats can roam freely together. Coincide with meal times. Expect some hissing and hesitation while they assess each other.
- Feed your cats in each other's presence at a comfortable distance apart and then separate again. If either will not eat, try again later when they are relaxed.
- Allow them to spend longer and longer together after meals and move food bowls closer.
- Only consider the use of medication if absolutely necessary and under the direction of a vet or behaviourist.
- Resident cat's emotional state should be given priority over the newcomer.
3. How do I discourage my cat from spraying in the house?
Firstly you must distinguish between spraying and urinating. Spraying is a deliberate act of communication, which will be done on a vertical surface such as a wall. Urinating is the normal passing of urine onto a horizontal surface such as the floor. Spraying can be a sign of a quite serious upset but is usually a normal marking behaviour in entire males (un-neutured) and in most animals out of the house. Some of these apparent toileting problems can have a medical basis so if you are unsure always get a vet to check your cat.
For any kind of spraying/urination, cleaning the area properly is very important to prevent recurrence, try the following procedure:
- Clean the area with a 10% solution of a biological or enzymatic washing powder/liquid.
- Wipe area down with cool clean water and dry.
- Spray area with a low-grade alcohol such as surgical spirit through a plant mister.
Remember to check for colourfastness first.
As with many problems it is a wise to have a veterinary check up first in case it is related to a medical problem. Subtle changes can cause stress and spraying, and sometimes you may not even know of any changes. If there is a cat flap this can lead to insecurity even if your cat has been fine in the past, so it may help if it is blocked initially. Basis of treatment involves reassuring your cat that it's territory is safe and not under threat, giving lots of attention and feeding tasty foods. Pheromone sprays can be obtained from a vet to make your cat feel more settled but the area must be properly cleaned first. The longer this problem continues the more difficult it is to stop.
4. How do I deal with separation related anxieties?
Can be exhibited as barking, chewing, toileting and self-mutilation. A new pet or an older established one or an animal that has experienced some kind of upset or illness may exhibit these signs and a vet check may be necessary.
Please follow these general guidelines:
- For younger dogs, gradually accustom them to longer periods alone, precede these periods with quality time.
- Do not make a big issue out of coming in and leaving the house.
- Leave the dog with something desirable that it can only have when alone and that will keep it occupied such as food balls or toys.
- Do not punish mistakes or tell off for barking as this can increase anxiety and is ineffective. Punishment should only ever be used if the animal is caught in the act and even then is not very useful. Any mess should be cleared up when the animal is out of the room.
- Reward good behaviour, for example any time the dog is sitting quietly.
- Most damage is done within 10 minutes of departure. Anxiety is increased by the owners routine so change this to allay anxiety.
5. How do I house train my puppy?
- Avoid paper training if possible as it can encourage the dog to toilet in the house.
- Allow your puppy frequent opportunities to go out. Puppies are not able to reliably control their sphincter until they are 6 months old. Be sure to allow your puppy to go out immediately after feeding and sleep. Give regular meals and avoid snacking.
- Teach your puppy to walk on a lead so that you do not have to carry it outside to void. Activity encourages bowl movements.
- Once outside do not disturb your puppy if it begins to sniff or look interested in something, even if it is raining! When your puppy begins to go praise gently in a light voice, if you are too enthusiastic the puppy may stop. When your puppy is finished give it encouragement. Puppies can be taught to eliminate on command.
- It is pointless to punish for any mistakes especially if there is any delay in finding the mess. To be effective this must follow within seconds. If you do catch your puppy in the act, do not pick it up, but walk it outside and praise if it goes again. Clean areas soiled thoroughly to prevent encouraging the puppy to go back there. Dogs do not like to go near food or bedding so if your puppy is persistently going in one area move it's food bowl there. Puppy crates or pens can be used to AID training but should never be used for punishment.
6. How do I help my pet deal with fireworks, phobias and fears?
Reaction to phobias may vary. Tread gently as it is possible to make matters worse. It is important to go only as quickly as your pet will allow as fear may turn to aggression if your pet is pushed into a situation with no avenue for escape.
Fear of Fireworks:
As celebrations for bonfire night now seem to go on for longer than a single night, we urge everyone to follow the animal-friendly firework code. Loud firework bangs and dazzling displays of flashes in the sky can be particularly terrifying to animals. They get frightened and confused, run away and are often lost or injured. Bonfire heaps are also a danger. They attract small hibernating animals like hedgehogs which perish when the fire is lit. We can help animals avoid suffering firework and bonfire injuries by attending well-planned, organised events and firework displays as far away from farm animals and residential areas as possible. In order to keep your pet safe during this time, we advise owners to follow the tips below.
Preparation:
- Give your dog a good long walk to ensure fear is not increased due to an over abundance of energy. It also provides an opportunity for your dog to relieve himself as he may not be comfortable going outside later in the evening.
- If your pet is particularly sensitive to loud noises, ask your veterinary surgeon for advice on medication. There are some homeopathic remedies available to relieve stress but please consult your vet before supplying your pet with any of these remedies.
- Provide a litter tray for cats if they are used to having garden access.
- Remember to secure doors and windows.
- Build bonfires as late as possible and make a final check for animals before they are lit.
- If you are having a firework display or bonfire, warn neighbours and local farmers in advance so they can take precautions. Ideally, why not go to your local community display?
- Ensure your pets' identification is current so if they do get away local authorities are better able to help return them to you.
- You pet may find toys and treats comforting and distracting so ensure you have a supply of their favourites.
During the evening:
- Dogs and other pets living outside, such as rabbits, should be moved from the garden and taken into a garage or outbuilding or within the home, before it becomes dark. Curtains or blinds should be drawn before fireworks celebrations begin.
- Turn on the television or radio to drown out the noise and for reassurance.
- Monitor your pets' behaviour but don't fuss over them or crowd or your pets will pick up on your anxieties. You should keep to their normal routine as much as possible.
- Never let off fireworks near any animal. Horses and livestock in nearby fields will be terrified.
The day after:
- Always clear up after a bonfire party with fireworks - litter is hazardous to domestic and wild animals.
- Anxiety may continue for one or more days after the event so please watch your pet for signs of stress and continue to make them feel safe and secure.
Longer term measures:
You can purchase tapes of fireworks sounds to accustom your dog to them during training. These basic training skills can be used under normal circumstances ie. when there are no fireworks in the neighbourhood:
- When your dog is under control and relaxed, play a tape at very low volume so it is barely audible and encourage your dog to perform tasks in an area where it feels safe. Give generous praise and reassurance.
- Gradually increase the volume at a rate with which your dog is comfortable.
- Training sessions should be short and frequent.
- This training procedure can also be used for other sounds such as thunderstorms.
Fear of cars:
- May be related to confinement, movement or the destination. Gradually expose your dog to the car in an unthreatening way and take your dog to places that are fun for you and your dog!
- Spend time with your dog in a parked car with doors open and ignition off. You can feed meals in the car, give tasty titbits and reassure. If your dog is too scared to eat in the car feed it a distance away and gradually get closer.
- When your dog is comfortable eating in the car you can try it with the ignition on.
- Close the doors, but keep windows open.
- Make a very short journey to somewhere nice like the park.
- Gradually increase the length of the journey.
- Your dog should be kept on a lead while doing this, but do not use the lead to restrain your dog if it is frightened. If your dog panics and pulls then you have moved too quickly and need to take a step back.
Fear of Vets:
- Do not just make journeys to the vet when your dog is ill as this creates negative associations. Most practices will indulge visits for nervous animals just to come in and be handled by a nurse and to be fussed over and given treats.
- Try giving treats that your dog loves and can only have when at the vets.
Fear of thunderstorms:
Comforting a dog when frightened of storms can enhance your dog's fear, It is better to ignore or redirect your dog into another activity to distract it. You can purchase tapes of these sounds to accustom your dog to them during training. Medication should only be used under the guidance of a vet. There are some homeopathic remedies available to relieve stress.
- Review basic training skills under normal circumstances.
- When your dog is under control and relaxed, play a tape at very low volume so it is barely audible and get your dog to perform tasks in an area where it feels safe. Give generous praise and reassurance.
- Gradually increase the volume at a rate your dog is comfortable.
- Training sessions should be short and frequent.
This training procedure can also be used for other sounds such as fireworks.
7. How do I stop my dog being destructive?
In puppies:
Chewing is a natural part of a puppy's development as they begin to explore their surroundings.
- Punish only if caught in the act otherwise this is pointless.
- Ignore any mess and clear up and remove your puppy from the situation until calm.
- Redirect your puppy's natural desire into appropriate chewing such as food balls, toys or long lasting rawhide type chews and praise when you see your puppy using these toys.
- Do not give articles of clothing etc to your puppy to chew as this may confuse it.
- You can use sprays such as bitter apple spray as a deterrent but they are not always effective and taste awful if you get it on your hands.
In adults:
If you think your dog's destructiveness is related to being left alone see the FAQ "How do I deal with separation related anxieties?"
If you think your dog's destructiveness is a way of seeking attention then be aware that pets soon learn that they will be rewarded with owners undivided attention when they chew something. The dog may overlook the fact that this attention is negative. You must make sure that you give your dog attention even when it is being good and quiet so that it does not resort to objectionable attention seeking behaviour.
Ignore any attention seeking chewing and redirect your dog towards appropriate chewing behaviour and praise any positive behaviour.
8. What should I do when I move my pet to a new home?
This can be very traumatic and upsetting for cats and dogs. You are often distracted and stressed and this can rub off. The period before moving is also stressful, i.e. packing of boxes.
It is often advisable to put pets into boarding kennels or a cattery or even send them to stay with someone that they know. Try to keep them away until the move is completed and the house is pretty much in order.
When your pets are brought into the new house there must be time devoted to settling in, familiar bedding etc is good but do not let basic rules go, as this will confuse matters in the long run. Allow your pet quiet time to explore its new surroundings, keep your pets out of the way of any building work or decorating that may also be going on. Make sure your pets knows where food and water bowls are and where they can go to the toilet. Cats should probably be kept in for a period of at least two weeks to allow them to settle in their new home before letting them out.
9. How do I teach my cat how to use a litter tray?
Most kittens are taught to use litter trays by their mothers. If your kitten's mother has not taught your kitten you may have to help. Place the litter tray in a convenient place for the kitten but not too near it's feeding bowls. Fill the litter tray with some litter. Some cats have preferences for particular types of litter, such as wood shavings or pelleted wood or newspaper, mineral litters, or garden soil. If your cat has been used to going outdoors sometimes mixing soil with the litter can help. Change the litter tray once per day per cat. Changing too often can confuse your cat as some residual scent gives your cat an idea of how to use the tray.
Lift your kitten into the tray when he first wakes, as this is the time he will need to "go". After feeding repeat the process. If your kitten looks like he is searching for a place to go then lift him into the tray again. If your cat has an accident then do not use ammonia-based cleaners as this may attract your cat back to the area.
10. How do I deal with inappropriate toileting in dogs and cats?
This is usually related to some kind of stress or upset, but may be related to a medical problem so it is a good idea to get a vet check. If the problem is related to separation see the FAQ "How do I deal with separation related anxieties?". Usually it's advisable to use housetraining advice to retrain your dog when other issues are resolved.
11. My cat is scratching the wallpaper, what should I do?
Cats find it difficult to resist scratching wallpaper with vertical stripes and they will also scratch woodchip paper. Alternatively put a scratching post next to the area your cat is scratching and gradually move it away. Catnip sprinkled around the base of the post may help attract your cat to it, although only some cats are attracted to catnip.
12. Clicker Training for dogs - what is it and how can I use it?
Why train my dog?
Training is essential in creating a channel for communication between you and your dog. This is important to ensure that your dog understands what is expected of it, is confident and relaxed and you can enjoy its company, after all this is why we want to share our lives with a dog!
What is clicker training?
Clicker training is a simple and effective method of training based on a positive reinforcement reward system. The clicker itself is a simple plastic box with a metal tongue. When compressed it emits a double 'click' sound. The clicker is used to reward a specific behaviour and works on most dogs willingness to want to please their owners and earn their prize. The beauty of the clicker is that it is specific to the behaviour your dog is exhibiting at the time that you want to reward. Praise such as "who has been a good boy then!" is not going to be as effective in teaching your dog what is going to get it a reward and so it will take longer for it to learn. As the click is sounded as the behaviour is occurring there can be no doubt about what the dog is being rewarded for.
Clicker training uses your dogs own natural desire to learn and obtain a reward without having to use any force or punishment. If your dog does not do what you are trying to train it will not get a click reward and so will try harder to do what you want to gain recognition.
Why use a clicker instead of food lure training?
Using food as reward is still an essential part of training, at least initially. However, using food rewards alone has some draw backs:
- Using food as reward is still an essential part of training, at least initially. However, using food rewards alone has some draw backs:
- Some dogs will grow bored and stop learning if the treats are not used correctly and they are either undesirable or the dog becomes full.
- The treat may distract the dog from understanding exactly what he did to earn the reward.
- Treating can lead to the dog to refuse to perform a task unless the treat is produced, and many of these dogs will end up only doing as they are asked when the treat is on show.
So how do I get started?
Like any kind of training begin in an environment that your dog is comfortable and relaxed in. Begin to associate the click with a reward by click-treat-click-treat-click etc holding the clicker out of view. Your dog will eventually begin to associate the clicker with a reward until the click becomes a reward in itself.
In obedience training you give your dog an idea of what is expected and then when he does it right you can reward him. For example 'lure' your dog into the sit position by holding a treat in front of your dogs nose and move your hand back over your dogs head. As he tries to keep the treat under his nose his bottom will automatically hit the floor, at this stage you can then click and treat. As you repeat this only give treats intermittently and introduce a command. Allow your dog time to work out what you want him to do and be patient.
13. Dog training or People training?
Most people get a dog for the company, exercise and enjoyment that these hugely loyal and entertaining animals bring. However, in order to fit into and be accepted by society they are expected to behave in a certain way. We often expect our pets to 'know' this is how they are meant to behave without actually considering whether this is normal for them.
Knowing how to train your dog is not actually something that comes naturally and is a skill you will need to develop. Understanding more about how a dog thinks and what is 'normal' for your dog will help you to do this. It is important to remember that most of the time our pet dogs are keen to please and if they are not doing as you ask perhaps you are not being clear about what you want or are not using rewards, commands and your body language in a way that your dog understands.
When should I begin to train my dog?
Whether you have just brought home a new puppy or a rescue dog, training should and will begin straight away. Remember your dog can pick up bad habits if allowed to get away with certain behaviour when settling in that you later feel will be unacceptable. For example you allow your puppy to sleep in your room for the first few nights as he is crying, a few months down the line you cannot shut your dog in the kitchen at night because he barks the house down! So you should decide on the ground rules before your pet arrives and stick to them.
What will I need to get started?
Mostly you will need a bit of patience and a willing pet. You will also need a small, tasty treat to reward your dog with and a quiet room with no distractions to enable you and your dog to concentrate. It can be very helpful to join a training class for guidance, support and socialisation or work from a reputable dog-training book that works on a positive reinforcement method. Ensure that you have suitable training aids or equipment to hand such as clicker, harness, lead etc. Once your dog is performing a certain task reliably you can start to ask them to do this in a 'real' situation.
What should I train my dog to do?
You can train a dog to perform almost any task with clear concise commands and a suitable reward. Tasks fall into 2 categories:
1. Tasks that provide your dog with behaviour necessary for him to fit into society and keep him safe such as:
- House training.
- Socialisation with other dogs and people and situations your puppy will need to deal with.
- Come/recall command.
- Sit, stay, down.
- Walking to heel.
- Retrieving objects.
2. Tasks that are just good fun.
- Giving paw.
- Beg.
- Shutting the door.
- Catching a ball/treat.
14. How do I toilet train my puppy?
How do I toilet train my puppy?
Although puppies should not be allowed to have any direct contact with an unvaccinated dog or an area where unvaccinated dogs may have been this does not mean that they are not allowed outside at all. In fact a balance should be made between ensuring that the puppy is not at risk of disease and adequate socialisation. You can allow your puppy to have access to safe and secure outside areas where you can be sure that no unvaccinated dogs or any foxes have been. Toilet training an adult dog needs the same techniques and patience as a puppy so read onÉ
How long will it take to toilet train my puppy?
The length of time it takes for a puppy to become house-trained can vary widely. Some may pick it up almost instantly while others may take as long as six months. Remember, puppies are not able to reliably control themselves until they are about 6 months old so you may experience the occasional accident. The speed of litter training will depend on the puppy but also the amount of time and effort that you put in.
Should I teach my puppy to use newspaper?
Paper training is fine but can lead to some problems by encouraging your puppy to go the toilet in the house, albeit on paper will make it much more difficult as the puppy gets older to teach it that this is now wrong and that they should go outside. Also if urine soaks to the carpet, it can be very difficult to remove the scent sufficiently so that the puppy cannot smell it and be attracted back to that spot. If you do decide to use newspaper then lay a sheet of polythene underneath to prevent urine soaking through.
What is the most effective way to toilet train my puppy?
The simplest way to house train a puppy is to try and make sure that you do not allow your puppy the opportunity to make a mistake. This basically means that you should ensure that you take your puppy to the place you want it to eliminate at times when you can predict that the bowel and bladder will be full. This will be after meals, drinking, sleep and activity or play.
Lead, rather than carry, the puppy outside (or to the paper if you have chosen this method), when the puppy begins to sniff around and circle as if it wants to eliminate then begin to praise, gently so that you do not distract the puppy. You can teach your puppy to eliminate on command by matching this with a command such as 'Hurry'. When your puppy has finished you can then give plenty of praise and perhaps a treat as reward. The more often you do this the quicker your puppy will pick this up. You should ensure that your puppy is supervised as much as possible so that you can prevent mishaps.
What should I do at night or when I cannot be there?
When they are very young puppies often need to eliminate every 3 to 4 hours. To prevent them from getting into the habit of eliminating in an inappropriate area you can use a puppy pen or indoor kennel. These can be useful when toilet training a puppy if they are used in the right way. A kennel should not be used to put the puppy in if it does not like it, or as a punishment or just to keep it out of the way of the comings and goings in the house. The kennel should be large enough for the puppy (consider the size he will be when he gets older) to stand up in without stooping, lay flat out in and turn around it. It should contain its bed, water bowl and any toys you want to leave.
Initially encourage your puppy to go in there by giving it attention and treats while in there, your puppy will learn that this is a safe place to be where it can go whenever required and can sleep in there. When the puppy is happy to go in there and sleep with the door open you can start to shut the door for short periods until it is comfortable with this. Ensure that the puppy is tired when in the kennel so that your puppy will just want to sleep and is not full of beans!
Indoor kennels or pens can be useful in puppy toilet training as they do not like to go to the toilet in their bed and feeding areas, this is an instinctive behaviour designed to keep the nest clean. However, if your puppy does have an accident you should not punish this.
What should I do if I catch my puppy toileting in the house?
Avoid the temptation to run up to the puppy, grab it off the floor and whisk it outside. This will confuse the puppy rather that teach that this is wrong. Instead interrupt the behaviour and lead your puppy outside to the right place. If your puppy shows no signs of wanting to go again, play a game and see if this stimulates them.
Punishment of any kind is rarely useful in toilet training puppies, no matter how frustrated you get. Remember your puppy is not doing this to purposely annoy you, it may have been caught short or not quite understand what you have been trying to teach. Punishment is especially ineffective if there is any time between your puppy eliminating and when you find it. If you find a puddle it is better to clean it up and simply concentrate on showing your puppy the right thing to do. Review what you have been doing so far, are you taking the puppy outside often enough? Are you being quick enough with your praise?
Rubbing their noses in their mess or showing them it after are unlikely to be effective and will probably frighten your dog. They will probably not associate your anger with the puddle in front of them.
15. Why does my cat scratch?
Scratching is a perfectly normal behaviour that has a number of very important benefits. These benefits include:
- Sloughing off of dead nail sheath
- Visual marker for other cats to see
- Scent marker, glands in the pads deposit scent as the cat scratches
- Conditioning of the muscles required for the retraction of the nail
For cats that spend a great deal of the day outside, scratching in the home is rarely a problem as tree trunks provide a perfect surface for scratching. Cats will generally not scratch in the home if a suitable site for this behaviour is provided.
Encouraging the use of a scratching post.
- Some cats do not like the sisal that is wrapped around many commercial scratching posts. Try covering it with carpet (comb first to ensure that there are no tight loops that your cat claws can get caught in) or come other material that your cat may prefer.
- It should be in a prominent position in the room near to areas that are already preferred for scratching. Once your cat uses it reliably you can begin to more it into a more suitable position in the room, but hiding it out of the way may just mean your cat will revert back to previous scratching positions. Place a scratching post close to sleeping quarters as well.
- Consider the surface that your cat is currently scratching. Some cats would rather use a horizontal rather than vertical surface and vice versa. Cats often have more interest in a scratching area if it is more of an activity centre, with places to climb up and different levels and perhaps a cubbyhole and appropriate toys. These can be shop brought or made at home.
- If your cat is responsive to cat nip you can try sprinkling a little of this herb over the post to attract your cat. If not a small amount of oil from a tin of tuna can be rubber into the post.
- As long as your cat is not anxious try rubbing its paws gentle over the surface of the post.
Stopping your cat using your furniture for scratching.
- Generally cats have a preferred surface for scratching, usually surfaces that the cat can really get their claws into and drag them along. You can cover these surfaces with a loose fitting material or tinfoil that will be ineffective for scratching or using sticky tape that will feel unpleasant under their paws.
- Prevent your cat having access to preferred areas when you are not there to correct it.
- The use of citronella or eucalyptus type scents is very unpleasant to cats. Your cat will be reluctant to approach these scents. But this does have its drawbacks, as cats have every sensitive noses this can have a profound effect on your cat. If the scent fills the whole room the cat may be unhappy about going in there at all.
- Punishment will not stop scratching and often will only mean your cat will just scratch when you are not there. A sound deterrent can be used to interrupt your cat but should not be seen to come from you.
Attention seeking?
If your cat is scratching to attract your attention then it is very important that you ignore it. Any attention directly from you even shouting is likely to be seen as reward for this behaviour. Some cats use this behaviour to get their owners undivided attention. If your cat only scratches when you are in the room (some even give a cheeky glance towards you to make sure that you are watching) your cat may be trying to initiate some kind of desirable response from you. Do not give your cat any attention when it does this including eye contact, talking too or touching your cat. If your cat has been doing this for a while it may try harder initially to get your attention. If you give in then your cat will have learnt to try harder to get what it wants.
16. How can I ensure a stress free home move for my cat?
Moving to a new home can be very stressful both for you and your cat. Not only can the move itself be upsetting but the process of settling in can also have its problems. Below are a few tips to help this relocation be as stress free as possible for your cat.
- Before you begin packing you should ensure that your cat is kept out of the way. Ideally a short stay in a cattery or with someone they know is preferable to exposing them to the move and also stop you worrying too much about them.
Alternatively, keep the cat in one of the quietest rooms away from the activity with their own bed, food and water bowls and litter tray. - On the day of the move ensure that your cat is secure and away from the removal activity, you may need to put him/her in a cat basket so that they do not run off if the doors are accidentally left open and he/she is frightened.
- When the time comes to move them to your new home do it either before the removal of your belongings or after the rest of the move has occurred if possible. Place your cat in a quiet room again with his/her own bed etc and one or two familiar items such as a chair, blanket or cushion.
- Your cat should be confined for the first few days until you have done most of your unpacking to minimise the change that they experience. After this you can let your cat out for a little wander around with you. If he/she seems relaxed and grooms happily then your cat should settle but if he/she seems stressed confine to the one room for a few days letting your cat out for short periods for attention and feeding when the house is quiet. Keep food/water and litter trays in the same place to try and keep your cat as settled as possible.
- Try not to move things around too much while they are settling in and keep them away from any workmen, as this will be even more unsettling.
- Stick to normal feeding and play routines.
The key to any move with a pet is continuity and positive reinforcement.
How long should I wait for letting my cat outside?
If kept in for a few weeks your cat will probably want to stay close to your home initially. If you live close to your old home it is possible that your cat may go back there, this is because when exploring your cat may recognise its old territory. In this case keep your cat in for a little longer. Cats are very adept at creating a map of the area in their minds based mainly on scent and some visual markers, which they will be able to recognise and should be able to find their way back to their new home once settled in for 2-3 weeks.
When you first let your cat out make sure that it is before he/she is due to have a meal and during the day, this way your cat will be hungry and unlikely to wander far. You will then be able to call your cat back for food. This will work better if you stick to regular meal times as close to those that your cat has been used to.
You should also consider if your cats new environment is very different to what they are used to. For example if you live near a road and you are used to living in a very quiet location then your cat may not know how to deal with traffic and be at extra risk, so take extra care when you first let him/her out.
FAQ'S FOR NUTRITION & HEALTH.
1. How much food should I feed my pet?
Every cat or dog is an individual. Like people, some pets put on weight more easily than others and need less food to keep them slim and fit, while others need extra to keep them at their ideal body weight. Feeding guides are as accurate as possible, but some pets may need less or more than this "ideal".
Assess your dog's body condition by trying to feel it's ribs - you should just be able to feel them under a firm covering of flesh. There should be a waist between the ribs and hips and the tummy should be tucked up. Cats tend to get plump, saggy tums first and then start to put on weight over the ribs. Feed your pet less or more depending on how your dog or cat measures up to this ideal. Once your dog or cat is at the ideal weight further slight adjustments may be necessary.
2. My cat is very fussy - what is the best thing to feed it?
Every cat is an individual and like people can have taste preferences. Cat foods are available in many different forms such as chunks in jelly, chunks in gravy or a meatloaf type. If your cat is very fussy warming the food slightly will help to release the natural aromas. Hand feeding can also be very useful to tempt a cat that is convalescing after an illness. One trick is to try offering a "platter" with a little of each different types of food on it and watch for the one your cat shows a preference for. Don't forget that some cats prefer crunching on a dry food.
3. How do I get rid of fleas from my cat or dog?
There are a number of preparations that can be used to safely treat your pet against fleas. These are available from vets and pet shops. Check that the preparation you use is suitable for the age of animal you intend to treat as puppies and kittens may be more sensitive. Treatments can be powders, sprays (liquid or aerosol), drop on preparations or tablets or liquids to go in food. It is also sensible to treat the home, as there may be flea eggs still in the house. Putting a flea collar in your vacuum cleaner bag is another handy hint.
4. What's the best way to feed dry foods?
Most dry foods can be fed either dry or soaked in gravy or with water. As a rule most cats prefer to eat their food dry and it usually becomes less attractive to them when soaked. Some dogs also enjoy the food dry while others may prefer soaking. This is usually the case if the dog has been used to eating a canned food before. Soak the food in warm water and allow to cool before offering it to these dogs. Remember that gravy can be quite salty and there is usually no need to offer this with a dry complete food that contains all the nutrition a dog needs. The time for the food to soak will vary according to the particular food but as a rough guide 30 minutes is usually enough.
5. My dog is a diabetic do I need to feed a special diet?
Diabetic dogs usually need to be given insulin every day. In many cases your dog can be fed the same food she has always had, provided that you give her the same amount of food, of the same type, at the same time every day. Without following a regular routine she will prove hard to "stabilise" on her insulin. If your dog is very difficult to stabilise or also has a weight problem then your vet may prescribe a special diet to help avoid any fluctuations in her blood sugar level and to keep the weight down.
6. What's the best way to wean my kitten?
Kittens can usually be started on the weaning process at three weeks of age and should be fully weaned by 6-8 weeks of age. Canned food can be mashed up and mixed with water to form a gruel. The gruel can then be smeared around the kitten's lips to encourage the food to be licked off. Some kittens will take the food as a mash but make sure there are no big chunks. Dry food can also be soaked and used to make a gruel. Feed little and often and as the kittens get older add less water to the mixture. Many kittens will eat dry food without it being soaked by 10-12 weeks of age while most will manage a canned kitten food at 6-8 weeks.
7. How do I groom my cat?
It is estimated that the average healthy adult cat may spend up to 30% of its time grooming. Yet, being involved in your cats grooming routine is good opportunity for you to spend quality time together bonding with your cat. There are also many other benefits in being a part of this routine.
Grooming not only stimulates the circulation and improves muscle tone, but also minimises hairballs in the stomach by removing loose hairs. This is also an opportunity to spot any problems such as external parasites, lumps, bumps or matts and even hairloss.
Coat condition is also a good indicator of overall health. Normally your cats coat should be sleek and glossy. Consequently, if there are any changes in you cats coat, this may be an early sign of health changes and we would advise contacting your veterinary surgery to discuss the situation.
However, many cats may experience difficulties grooming themselves for a variety of reasons.
If your cat was not groomed for a young age then she may never have become used to it. It may be a distressing experience for a nervous cat that may be reluctant to be picked up and restrained and may also be painful if the comb or brush catches her skin. If your cat is older he may problems if his dental health is compromised or he has joint pain. If your cat is obese, he may not be able to reach certain parts to groom and may require your assistance coupled with a diet plan!
If you are experiencing difficulties, we have enclosed some advice to increase your cats tolerance.
You may need to withhold all grooming for a few weeks. Initially we would recommend that avoids using the traditional combs and brushes as this can cause discomfort and may even make your cat less tolerant of the process. We would recommend the use of a very soft rubber brush, which promotes more of a massage-type of action due to the rubber teeth that are more flexible than ridged comb teeth.
If your cat is happy to come and sit on your lap or near you, you can start to introduce a new routine. Ensure that she is relaxed, talk gently to her and stroke her giving food rewards if necessary. Begin stroking in places that she is very tolerant of being touched. Then, pick up the rubber mitt and brush in these places very gently for a short period of time, giving very small treats. End with a period of stroking again. Do this little and often building up the time you spend using the brush and in different parts of the body. The aim is that your cat will learn to enjoy these positive periods of interaction with you. However, you should always end these periods if your cat shows signs of agitation.
Once your cat is happy to tolerate this you can begin to introduce other brushes, again gently and for short periods of time initially. Allow your cat to get used to the brushes in association with a positive experience. Lying the brushes next to your cats feeding bowl so that she can sniff them and not feel threatened when they are introduced can do this.
8. How do I groom my dog?
All dogs need and appreciate regular grooming. Grooming not only helps your dog look his best but also keeps him clean and healthy. These sessions not only stimulate the circulation and improve muscle tone, but also gives you the opportunity to check for any potential problems such as lumps, bumps or matts or external parasites. Other benefits also include the removal of excess hairs from his coat that may end up on your furniture or carpet and of course the chance to spend extra time with your dog, therefore increasing the bond between the two of you.
Coat condition is also a good indicator of overall health and an ideal opportunity for you to notice any changes in your dogs coat.
Normally, the coat should be sleek and glossy. Consequently, if there are any changes, this may be an early sign of health changes and we would advise discussing these changes with your veterinary surgery.
Certain breeds may require more grooming than others. For instance, long-haired dogs may require clipping on a regular basis as well as a daily routine. Basic equipment may differ with each coat-type as well. Long-haired dogs may need a long tooth comb, whereas short-haired dogs may need a coarse brush. However, grooming may be quite painful for some dogs, particularly if they are not used to being groomed or are experiencing health issues. Even if you think you are being very gentle your dog may feel otherwise. This can lead to a negative experience for your dog and make the sessions worse each time you attempt to groom him.
In cases such as these a soft grooming mitt or rubber brush coupled with some tips, should make this experience easier for both of you.
If you experiencing difficulties, please email our team for advice.
Grooming checklist:
Brushing:
We would suggest grooming your dog at least once a day. A ten-minute session is normally adequate for most short-medium breeds of dogs. However, a long-haired dog may require slightly longer.
Feet & Nails:
Examine your dogs feet daily (particularly long-haired breeds), to check for any matts or foreign objects between the toes (burrs/grass-seeds). Nails may need to be clipped if not being adequately worn down by daily activity. This may be something that you can do at home, however should you need any assistance, your vet will be able to provide you with some tips.
Skin:
Run your hands over your dogs coat to check for any lumps, bumps or matts. Should you find anything out of the ordinary, please discuss this with your vet.
Fleas:
It is uncommon to find adult fleas on living on your pet as they prefer the to live in the environment and then periodically jump on your dog for food! However, you may find small black particles on your dogs skin, these may be deposits of flea dirt. If you dog has fleas, we would suggest discussing a flea-control programme with your veterinary surgery.
Ticks:
These are small white parasites that gorge on your dogs blood. They can be easily picked up from certain park areas or places that have dense vegetation. If you find one of these, they need to be removed very carefully so as to disconnect the whole part of the tick. Your vet will be able to do this.
9. What are the pros and cons of neutering my cat?
When should I consider neutering?
From around the age of 5 to 8 months, kittens reach sexual maturity and are therefore capable of breeding and producing kittens themselves! Most veterinary surgeries would advise that the best time to have your cats neutered is between 5-6 months. It is advisable to keep your cats in until they are neutered, as they may be able to get pregnant slightly before this age.
Why neuter?
The benefit of having cats neutered far outweighs the consequences and is a very responsible thing for a cat owner to do.
Neutering a cat - castration in the male (removal of the testes), and spaying the female (removal of the ovaries and uterus), not only prevents unwanted pregnancies occurring, but also curbs unwanted behavioural patterns associated with sexual maturity. It also reduces the risk of certain diseases and reduces the risk of female cats possibly developing a uterine infection. An unspayed female cat can have up to three litters each year, with up to six kittens in each litter. In five years she could have over 20,000 descendants.
Once sexual maturity is reached, the cat will begin to come into season or 'call'. Cycles of sexual activity typically occur every three weeks and will only stop once your cat is spayed. Signs may include rolling around on the floor, yowling or calling, increased appetite and restlessness.
How can I tell if my cat is pregnant?
If you do not get your cat spayed, they cat may become pregnant. You will not be able to tell if your cat is pregnant until the 2nd or 3rd week of the pregnancy. The pregnancy will last 63 days. Signs may include enlarged nipples (may change colour & harden to prepare for lactation) and a swollen belly from around 4-5 weeks.
We would recommend taking your cat to the vets for a check up to confirm pregnancy. Once there, the vet should be able to advise the best course of action.
What changes can I expect after neutering?
In the male, you may find that your cat does not stray as much and therefore is at less risk of being involved in possible road traffic accidents and being involved in fights with other cats. The aggressive behaviour puts an uncastrated male at much higher risk of serious infectious diseases that are transmitted through cat bites. It may also stop him from starting to 'spray' or mark his territory around your home.
Cats usually recover from the neutering operation remarkably quickly. They may be a little drowsy for a few hours, but by the next day they are usually very lively again.
It is important to remember that once a cat has been neutered, there is a stronger tendency for it to become obese. This is because it may become less physically active due to no longer feeling the urge to roam around looking for a mate. You may therefore need to adjust the amount of food you provide should your cat start to put on too much weight.
10. What are the pros and cons of neutering my dog?
When should you consider neutering?
From around the age of 6-8 months, puppies reach sexual maturity and are therefore capable of breeding and producing puppies themselves! Some veterinary surgeries will advise that the best time to have your female dogs neutered is before their first season and others may say afterwards, but none will do this during the season, preferring to wait 6-8 weeks after a season to perform the procedure. Most surgeries will recommend neutering a male dog at 6 months of age. It is advisable to keep your dogs on a leash at this time, as female dogs may be able to get pregnant slightly before this age. We would also recommend not leaving your dog tied up outside shops during this time for the same reasons.
Why neuter?
The benefit of having dogs neutered far outweighs the consequences and is a very responsible thing for a dog owner to do.
Neutering a dog - castration in the male (removal of the testes), and spaying the female (removal of the ovaries and uterus), not only prevents unwanted pregnancies occurring, but also curbs unwanted behavioural patterns associated with sexual activity. It also reduces the risk of false pregnancies and certain diseases such as mammary tumours, pyometras (uterine infection) and testicular tumours. Once sexual maturity is reached, the female will begin to come into season. Cycles of sexual activity typically occur twice yearly and will only stop once your dog has been spayed. Signs of a season may include inappetance, lethargy, frequent urination and a swollen vulva.
How can I tell if my dog is pregnant?
If you do not get your dog spayed, they may become pregnant. You will not be able to tell if your dog is pregnant until 5-6 weeks after breeding. The pregnancy will last 63 days. Signs may include enlarged nipples and a swollen belly from around 4-5 weeks.
We would recommend taking your dog to the vets for a check-up to confirm pregnancy. Once there, the vet will be able to advise on the best course of action.
What changes should I expect after neutering?
In the male, you may find that your dog will not stray as much (to find unneutered females), may become calmer and may cease any aggressive behaviour or sexual behaviour such as mounting or marking their territory with urine, but it will not change their basic character.
Dogs usually recover from the neutering operation remarkably quickly. They may be a little drowsy for a few hours, but by the next day they are usually lively again.
It is important to remember that once a dog has been neutered, there is a stronger tendency for it to become obese. This is because it may become less physically active due to no longer feeling the urge to roam around looking for a mate. You may therefore need to adjust the amount of food you provide should your dog start to put on too much weight.
